Visiting Rwanda: Africa’s Land of 1,000 Hills, Mountain Gorillas, and Sustainable Travel

The Land of a Thousand Hills, home of the mountain gorillas, and the “Heart of Africa,” Rwanda has long captured our imagination. We featured the country in our National Geographic book, even though it was one of the few we had not yet visited, because we knew their remarkable story deserved a spot in Ultimate Journeys for Two. This tiny central-east African nation, once decimated by genocide, has transformed itself into a leader in conservation, gender equality, economic development, and sustainable tourism.

And there is no event that showcases Rwanda’s success and zest for life like Kwita Izina, the Baby Gorilla Naming Ceremony, so we seized the opportunity to join Visit Rwanda for the celebration and coinciding media tour around the country! Plus, we extended our stay for a proper three-week journey from Rwanda’s capital of Kigali to its four national parks, their African Great Lake, and culturally rich villages. This country stole our hearts and earned its spot on the HoneyTrek List of The World’s Most Romantic & Sustainable Destinations.

Read our experience from visiting Rwanda and discover the best things to do, the loveliest places to stay, and why you have to add this African nation to your bucket list.

KIGALI, RWANDA’S CAPITAL

We landed in Kigali, the capital of Rwanda and one of Africa’s most up-and-coming cities. Exploring the rolling hills of this 1.2-million-person metropolis, we took in the scenes of Africa…ladies selling fruits from baskets on their heads, motos whizzing by, bicycles hauling jugs of banana beer, cell phone top-up shacks, and construction workers building complexes in flip flops. Kigali possesses that raw vibrancy we love about Africa, and something more. It’s been named the cleanest city on the continent, with nary a fleck of trash on the street! The buzz of busy intersections is balanced with pedestrian-only streets and manicured parks, furthered by citywide car-free days twice a month to encourage cleaner air and outdoor activity.

The progressive capital sets the tone for the country, and their mindful ways are now a national standard, with the philosophy and practice of umuganda. In the Rwandan language of Kinyarwanda, it translates to “coming together in common purpose to achieve an outcome,” and is the name for their nationwide monthly cleanup. The last Saturday of the month, each community gets together to tidy up their neighborhood for a country that sparkles!

Best Things to Do in Kigali

Explore this vibrant city by foot and its fun and affordable moto-taxi system, making these essential stops…

Imbuga City Walk

Among the skyscrapers and palm trees, this beautifully manicured promenade is Kigali’s main car-free, area. Shop the craft stalls, take a selfie at the big “Kigali” sign, and pop into Norrsken House Kigali—Africa’s biggest hub for entrepreneurship—for an excellent coffee and a jolt of inspiration. Try to visit Imbuga on the first or third Sunday of the month for the liveliest time and rent a bicycle here to join the city’s day of outdoor recreation.

Nyamirambo Walking Tour

Follow the change-makers at the Nyamirambo Women’s Center for a tour of Kigali’s most historic and vibrant neighborhood. When Rwanda was colonized as German East Africa (along with Tanzania and Burundi) in the late 1800s, the Germans brought over Tanzanians to settle the area, and this Muslim population has left its cultural imprint on the city. Into the 21st century, local women didn’t feel they had the economic freedom and social support they needed, so they formed the Nyamirambo Women’s Center, a social enterprise and community-based tourism project.

Check-in at their artisan studio, where you will see women working away on gorgeous textiles. The tour begins with a Kinyarwanda language lesson to better connect with the locals you meet during your neighborhood stroll. For a day in the life in Nyamirambo, we went to the milk shop, hair salon, corner market, children’s walking street, food stalls, and more, before ending with a traditional lunch at the co-founder’s home. Loved this look into Kigali’s local life and a tour that supports female empowerment! 

Nyandungu Park

Once a degraded wetland, Nyandungu Park is now a 300-acre recreational area within the city limits. Enjoy their native forests, medicinal gardens, hiking and biking trails, and educational programs. It’s a lovely example of Rwanda’s sustainable development and a great day in the park.

Kigali Genocide Memorial Museum

To fully appreciate how far Rwanda has come in recent decades is to understand the ashes from which they rose. The Kigali Genocide Memorial is one of the best ways to do that. The 1994 genocide against the Tutsi ethnic minority and the sympathetic Hutu, killed over 800,000 people and sent two million fleeing Rwanda. The powerful exhibits, memorial garden, wall of names, and ongoing Peace School have been a key element of the national healing process and international campaign for genocide prevention. It’s a painful, but hopeful and essential stop for everyone visiting Rwanda.

The New Amahoro Stadium

Have you noticed Visit Rwanda’s logo when watching European soccer games? The country is getting serious about sports abroad and at home. The Amahoro is Africa’s most anticipated stadium and green-design mega project, opening in 2024. Go for a game, concert, or event in this modern marvel.

Where to Stay in Kigali

We stayed at a different hotel on each of our three trips through Kigali. Upon landing from our 36-hour, multi-leg journey from Montana to Rwanda, we checked into the Radisson Blu near the airport and convention center. Modern design with every Western comfort, it was the perfect soft landing. Serena Hotel, while slightly dated decor, has a fantastic downtown location, one of the prettiest pools (above), a great spa, and a buffet breakfast beyond compare. For our final stay in Kigali, we just wanted to chill in our own apartment, so we got an Airbnb in the posh residential neighborhood of Kimihurura for $30 per night. Though from the looks of it, the best boutique hotel in Kigali is The Retreat…excited to try this chic spot on our next visit!

NYANZA & THE KING’S PALACE MUSEUM

Heading west from the modern-day capital, we went back in time to the hub of monarchical Rwanda, the royal city of Nyanza. Starting in the 11th century, Rwanda was a series of nomadic kingdoms, but when German colonization hit in the 19th century, the royals centralized their power with their own capital. We toured the King’s Palace and museum with their fantastic guide Alex. He led us to the reconstruction of the 19th-century complex, a series of bee-hive-shaped, thatch structures, including the ever-important dairy and pasture of the royal herd.

Cows are central to Rwandan culture, and the Inyambo breed with their 5-foot-long horns, shiny coats, and high intelligence are the ultimate status symbol. We met the traditional herders, who sing and caress the cows to improve their milk and wellbeing. Touring the royal family’s 20th-century residence, we learned about the fall of both Rwanda’s monarchy and Belgium’s colonial rule bringing rise to Rwanda’s independence in the early 1960s. 

RWANDA NATIONAL PARKS: GUIDES, FEES, AND GIVING BACK

We explored all four of Rwanda’s national parks (Nyungwe, Gishwati-Mukura, Volcanoes, and Akagera) and are excited to share our experience and best tips for visiting Rwanda’s parks. But first, we wanted to call out our favorite part…ten percent of all the park proceeds go back to the surrounding villages in the form of schools, health clinics, wells, roads, and more community improvement projects! This move has massively decreased illegal activities, like poaching and deforestation, because locals know that if they look after the park, it will look after them. So while park entry fees are $70-$150 (with gorilla trekking permits a cool $1,500), this money funds environmental and social good initiatives that make Rwanda one of the world’s most sustainable destinations.

NYUNGWE NATIONAL PARK

Moving southwest across the country, the terrain got hillier and the forests grew thicker, as we ascended to 8,000 feet in elevation. When baboons kept crossing the road, we knew we were close to Nyungwe National Park. One of the oldest rainforests in Africa, with over 300 bird species and 13 primate species, Nyungwe’s biodiversity and focus on conservation just earned them UNESCO status (est 2023)!

Nyungwe Canopy Walk

With a park ranger and guide (required, FYI), we set out on the Igishigishigi Trail. Mosses and orchids dripped from the old-growth trees, and colobus and golden monkeys swung overhead. The path went from dirt to steel as we set foot on Nyungwe’s famed Canopy Walk, rising 230 feet above the forest floor and stretching 525 feet through the treetops. Narrow, bouncy, and see-through, this bridge gave us butterflies in all the best ways, as we went eye-to-eye with the lively forest and endless views of the mountains.

Ndambarare Waterfall

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One day wasn’t enough in the stunning Nyungwe National Park, so we returned the following morning for a hike three miles deep into the valley to the recently discovered Ndambarare waterfall. Cradled by cliffs and cascading ~50 feet down into a perfect pool, the falls were stunning. After taking pictures of this beauty for nearly an hour, our guide told us to grab our water bottles and led us across the river. The rock wall was pouring out the cleanest water from an artisanal spring! The Ndambarare waterfall trail is a steep, out-and-back hike, but well worth it!

Gisakura Tea Plantation & Ivomo Social Impact

When we crossed over the Nyungwe park boundaries, we were suddenly in the Gisakura Tea Estate. Women in colorful kitenge dresses, filling their woven baskets with the day’s harvest, stopped to wave and smile. We returned the greeting in our best Kinyarwanda, “Muraho!” with an even bigger smile on our faces. Tea is one of Rwanda’s biggest exports, and social-impact orgs like Ivomo are making sure that success is felt by the local communities. We joined their tour, learning about Rwanda’s prime growing terrain, with its fertile volcanic soil and temperate climate, and how it was only introduced to the country in 1952.

The lead guide, Rick, showed us how the tea is picked, dried, and ground, and then he put baskets on our backs for a lesson in the field. The workers of Ivomo aren’t part of a corporation, but a cooperative that benefits from the tea harvesting, and also their tours and community-made handicrafts. Of course, our newfound skills, connection with the community, and caffeine buzz had us all wanting to support their business. (Heads up Family, there will be some Ivomo goodies in your Xmas stocking!)

Where to Stay in Nyungwe National Park

The Nyungwe area’s obvious five-star hotel winner is the One & Only Nyungwe House. For a budget option, Nyungwe Nziza Ecolodge has lovely accommodations, excellent views, and a good location at the eastern edge of the park. Also, it’s good to know that Nyungwe National Park isn’t far from the must-see Lake Kivu, so you could make that your base for the park like we did with a stay at Mantis Kivu Marina Bay Hotel.

KIVU, AN AFRICAN GREAT LAKE

Moving to the western edge of the country and the border of the Democratic Republic of Congo, we reached Lake Kivu. With a surface area of 1,040 square miles and a depth of 1,559 feet, this is one of the seven African Great Lakes. Volcanic activity has shaped Kivu and continues to impact its future. It once drained into the Nile River, but an eruption shifted the water’s course and has built up so much gas at the bottom, that a catastrophic limnic eruption is possible in the coming centuries. That said, Lake Kivu doesn’t have any deadly animals or parasites, which are common in many African lakes, so it’s one of the best places on the continent for a lake vacation. Kivu is stunning and relaxing addition to any Rwandan itinerary.

Best Things To Do on Lake Kivu

A boat trip is the best way to experience the expansive Lake Kivu–preferably by both speed boat and canoe. Our group of international journalists and influencers hopped aboard two-speed boats, feeling Miami-Vice fabulous as we zipped across the water to the islands and coves. The majority of the following were reached by boat, but many also have road access.

Meet the Swimming Cows

In addition to wonderful birdlife, some of Kivu’s islands have cows…that swim! Karongi-area farmers use the central Kivu islands as grazing pastures for their cattle and herd them by dugout canoe. Watching the bovines lumber into the water, then submerge to eye- and horn-level, as they kicked their skinny legs, was quite the sight. 

Kinunu Wonders Coffee Plantation

We docked our speedboat at central Kivu’s village of Boneza and the Kininu Wonders Coffee Plantation. They offer a great tour of the property and production process, from harvesting the Arabica coffee berry bushes to their washing, drying, sorting, and grinding stations. Rwandan coffee (the country’s #1 export) is known for its high acidity, giving it a vibrant and fruity taste, beloved around the world. Eighty percent of Boneza’s beans achieve top quality for export, yet nothing gets wasted with even the husks getting salvaged as a building material for a zero-waste process. We loved that the tour was very hands-on, from donning lab coats in the grinding room to trying traditional roasting methods with a clay pot and coals. Plus, the coffee is delish! Want the full plantation experience? Stay overnight in Kinunu’s on-site guest house.

Ribavu Beach

Resort areas often feel cut off from local life, which is why the inclusivity of Ribavu made it a delight. This is a popular public beach on the north end of the lake in the city of Gisenyi. When we went at dusk, locals were living their best life…swimming, juggling, running, and playing everything from volleyball to soccer. Serena Hotel Lake Kivu is perfectly situated between the action of the beach and the serenity of their gardens, so it offers the best of both worlds. If you are feeling adventurous during your Gisenyi stay, you can cross the border into the DRC (with a guide, of course) to experience this bustling point of commerce between the two countries. 

Where to Stay on Lake Kivu

Visiting Rwanda on a press trip and trying to cover the full offerings of this massive lake, we stayed at three hotels in total: Mantis Kivu Marina Bay (south end, not far from Nyungwe), Cleo (central on the hills of Bwishyura), and Serena Hotel (north end at Ribavu Beach). As far as amenities go, we’d recommend all three; however, if your budget allows, Cleo Lake Kivu would be a fabulous base. This brand new, Rwandan-owned, five-star hotel has stunning views, chic design, and our best dining experiences of the trip. Honeymoon-worthy indeed!

Though the hidden gem of the hotels we experienced? Rushel Kivu Resort. We went here for lunch and it turned into the nicest beach day. Set on a quiet cove with soft sand, swaying palm trees, a volleyball court, expansive gardens, great food, and rooms with stunning views, this place ticked all the boxes for only $125 a night. Plus, it neighbors the Boneza Coffee Plantation, which adds a nice cultural and pastoral twist to a vacation on Rwanda’s beaches. 

Insider Tip: MANTIS is about to open Lake Kivu’s first cruise ship, Kivu Queen uBuranga. This boutique hotel-meets-boat is going to be a fabulous and efficient way to experience the lake.

GISHWATI-MUKURA NATIONAL PARK

Rwanda’s fourth and newest national park, Gishwati-Mukura is made up of two separate forests: Gishwati and the smaller section of Mukura (opening soon). It’s an ambitious conservation project, with hopes of being the country’s next big primate safari destination. Presently Gishwati’s family of 20 chimpanzees is being habituated for closer encounters. Until then, there is one outfitter/lodge for overnight guests to birdwatch the park’s 232 species, hike the waterfalls, and hopefully see the chimps, golden monkeys, L’Hoests, and Blue Monkeys. Since it’s a new offering, it is the most affordable of the national park experiences and extra adventurous, for those who dig that combo! For more details on visiting at Gishwati-Mukara National Park, read this. 

VIRUNGA MOUNTAINS & VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK

Eight volcanoes intervoven by rainforest and spanning three countries, The Virunga Mountains are the world’s last remaining habitat of the endangered mountain gorillas. Such precious terrain made it Africa’s first national park and a UNESCO Biosphere. Trekking with the gorillas is on just about everyone’s bucket list, and was at the top of ours when we started HoneyTrek. Back in 2012, we actually booked this experience on the Uganda side, but an ebola outbreak canceled our trip! This time, we were far better prepared with our Allianz Travel Insurance and the smarts to go on the safer and more conservation-focused Rwanda side of the Virungas, with their national park and inspiring villages….and it was epic!

Things To Do Near Volcanoes National Park 

In addition to your gorilla trek, be sure to add these experiences to your Volcanoes National Park plans.

Ellen DeGeneres Campus of The Dian Fossey Fund

A visit to this brand-new museum, research center, and learning facility is a great intro to the mountain gorillas and efforts to conserve the species. Learn about renowned primatologist and activist Dian Fossey’s groundbreaking work to save the mountain gorillas and the legacy she’s left behind with the 55-year-old Dian Fossey Fund. At this state-of-the-art museum, you can go inside Dian’s actual mountain cabin, don VR glasses for an immersive gorilla trek, learn primate speak, and take a quiz to see what kind of game-changer you are.

Mountain Gorilla Tracking

Excitement was in the air as we joined our fellow trekkers for a ranger briefing at Volcanoes National Park. We were broken into groups of eight, based on our desired level of trekking difficulty, since some of the gorilla families are in close range and others are deep in the rainforest. Our group of hearty trekkers was about to embark on a multi-hour journey up Bisoke Volcano to find the famous Titus family, studied by Dian Fossey, the subject of the documentary Gorilla King, and the face on the 5,000 Rwandan Franc bill.

Moving through the volcanic farmland to the park border, we were suddenly in the thick, old-growth forest of the UNESCO biosphere. After squeezing through bushes and ducking under vines for an hour, we got a call from the trackers that the gorillas were just up ahead. Time to put away any food, don our masks for COVID safety, and stay calm! We spent an hour with these majestic creatures, our close relatives with 98% shared DNA sequence, and were in total awe. Watch our video of our unbelievable gorilla experience.

Rwanda Gorilla-Trekking Essential Info

• 96 permits are issued each day for Volcanoes National Park Gorilla Tracking
• 8 people per trekking group
• 10-20 gorillas are likely to be spotted when observing a gorilla family
• 1-3 hour hike, depending on the gorilla family’s location that day
• 1 hour with the gorillas to limit human interaction
• Obtaining a gorilla tracking permit can be done directly through the Rwanda Development Board. Since Volcanoes National Park Rangers lead all the treks, you don’t need to book a specialized outfitter.
• 4-6 months in advance is the ideal time to reserve your permit
• $1,500 per person. Worth every single cent

Gorilla Guardians Village

Former poachers and the communities around Volcanoes National Park have found new livelihood through the creation of Gorilla Guardians & The Iby’Iwacu Cultural Village, and the founder won a CNN Hero award for it! The intentions of this place are fantastic and, if you are only visiting Rwanda for a few days, it offers a good overview of the Rwandan traditions (drumming, milking cows, making banana beer, and even marriage practices. Fun fact, we got to play bride and groom in a 50-person wedding ceremony). But to be honest, the village felt a bit commercialized and over-the-top. For the best of community-based tourism and cultural immersion, our recommendation would definitely be Red Rocks, see below.

Red Rocks Intercultural Exchange Center

@honeytrek Banana beer is essential to Rwandan culture, so we took a workshop with Red Rocks, one of the most inspiring community-based tourism orgs in Africa! Their local womens' collective shares Rwandan culture with travelers in a way that enriches lives for all involved. We learned not just how to make a stiff drink, but why banana beer is a symbol of friendship. BANANA BEER RECIPE – Roast green bananas in a pit of leaves  – Peel, add to wooden trough – Knead with grasses until juices are released  – Filter into clay pots  – Add sorghum flour – Cover with banana leaves – Ferment for 2 days – Drink & be merry! #redrocksrwanda #bananabeer #communitybasedtourism

We met the Red Rocks founder Greg Bakunzi in Germany at the world’s largest travel tradeshow and his work was a big inspiration for our Rwanda trip. This ecotourism company and social enterprise is the beating heart of Rwanda’s community-based tourism and the UNWTO-award-winning Nkotsi tourism village. We stayed at Red Rocks’ guest house for three days in an artisan-made mud hut and took workshops in Rwandan drumming, cooking, banana-beer brewing, and pottery. All activities are led by their Women’s Cooperative, made of 52 ladies from three surrounding villages, with 100% of the proceeds going directly to them.

We were completely swept up in the positive energy of this place—from team leader Pouline, who has a way of communicating with a laugh and smile that makes you feel fluent in Kinyarwanda to the extended stay guests, working on everything from films to conservation projects. Watch our banana beer-making video for a swig of the Red Rocks magic.

Where To Stay Near Volcanoes National Park

We’d highly recommend staying a couple of nights at Red Rocks, though if nothing else, promise us you’ll go for a workshop! For luxury hotels near Volcanoes National Park, One & Only Gorilla’s Nest is the five-star winner and Sambora Kinigi is a gorgeous (and more affordable) boutique hotel.

KWITA IZINA BABY GORILLA NAMING CEREMONY

To bring awareness to mountain gorilla conservation and celebrate the growing population of this critically endangered species, Kwita Izina honors the baby gorillas with the ancient Rwandan tradition of a naming ceremony. The event is also an opportunity to thank the local communities that support Volcanoes National Park with a massive party of top bands, traditional dancers, and A-list celebrities…and we were so lucky to snag an invite! Rwanda’s First Lady Jeannette Kagame welcomed this year’s 23 Baby Gorilla Namers…Comedian Kevin Hart, Arsenal soccer legend Sol Campbell, UNESCO Director General, cast members of Wakanda Forever, the 2023 Global Citizen’s Prize Winner, and more celebs with a passion for the environment. Watch our video from the incredible Rwandan cultural ceremony.

AKAGERA, RWANDA’S BIG-FIVE GAME PARK

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Lions, elephants, giraffes, hippos, rhinos, and 500+ bird species thrive in Akagera National Park, but that wasn’t the case just a decade ago. After the Rwanda Genocide, the park became a haven for thousands of refugees, management fell apart, and deforestation and poaching was rampant. Central Africa’s largest wetland and the remainder of this diverse habitat and wildlife population needed help.

In 2010, the Rwandan Development Board joined forces with African Parks and put in place an emergency conservation plan. Cracking down on poaching, rehabilitating damaged ecosystems, reintroducing wildlife, training hundreds of rangers, and showing locals the benefits of stewardship, the park has turned an unbelievable new leaf. Today, wildlife populations are up 140%, with over 12,000 animals calling Akagera home!

Lake Ihema Boat Safari

Akagera’s lakes are teeming with life…particularly Lake Ihema! We joined a small boat safari to cruise this 40-square-mile lake (the largest within Rwanda’s borders) and spot as many animals as we could in an hour. Dozens of hippos waded around in the waters and one broke out in a sprint…to watch an 8,000-pound animal run at 25 miles an hour was incredible. The shores were also full of marauding baboons and the occasional crocodile. Looking up at the trees and sky, birdlife impressed with a Goliath heron, African fish eagle, pied kingfisher, African darters, and my favorite bird of all time …the lilac-breasted roller! With resplendent rainbow colors and a tradition of mating for life, the feathers of these birds have been used as wedding rings in some African traditions. With so much to see on Lake Ihema, we’d highly recommend a 2-hour tour.

Akagera Game Drive

Exploring this 433-square-mile park by safari vehicle is an all-day and fabulous affair, from the southern wetlands to the northern savanna. Zebras caused traffic jams, hippos cuddled up in the shallow waters, a pride of lions moved through the grasses, mama giraffes nursed their spindly-legged babies, cape buffalo rolled 50 deep, and baboons were at every turn. We saw three of the park’s Big Five species…and we have no doubt we’ll find them all next time we come to Akagera!

Where to Stay in Akagera National Park

We stayed at Akagera Game Lodge by MANTIS, the conservation-focused hotel group and the only luxury hotel in the park. We loved their pool, lake views, outdoor cookouts, evening bonfires, and community conservation fund for impact projects around Africa. For those looking for a tented safari experience, Magashi Camp is right on the water and ultra-romantic. 

Visiting Rwanda: The Experience of a Lifetime!

Rwanda is the ninth country we’ve explored in Africa and one of the most well-run, safe, friendly, and inspiring places you can visit on the continent. Paired with its natural beauty and wildlife, Rwanda offers a classic African safari experience–without resting on its laurels. The country is actively working to protect the environment and communities for sustainable tourism…the kind we should all support! 

To see more of our Rwanda photos, videos, and fun moments from our three-week trip, watch our Instagram Highlight Reel.

RWANDA: KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

• Best time to visit Rwanda: The dryer months of June to September and December to February are ideal for avoiding rain and mud, particularly for gorilla tracking. 
• Language of Rwanda: There is one national language (for reference the neighboring DRC has 273), called Kinyarwanda, though English is widely spoken. It’s always nice to learn a few local words to show respect, but communicating in English is the norm.  
• Travel Insurance for Africa: Between the complexity of transit, high-ticket purchases, and safety concerns of traveling in developing countries, travel insurance is a must. We highly recommend Allianz. We use their All Trips Premier annual plan, but they also offer comprehensive single-trip plans.
• Can you drink the water in Rwanda? Tap water is not safe to drink straight away. To avoid buying single-use plastic bottles, bring a reusable vessel and a UV light purifier. We love our combination of a Steripen and Nalgene, though if you want it all in one, LARQ makes a great water bottle with a UV sterilizer in the lid to protect you from harmful bacteria.
• Packing for Rwanda: Most of the country is 3,000 feet above sea level, which gives it a mild climate. Long-sleeve shirts and long pants are a smart choice for the temperature, sun protection, mosquito repellent (although we barely experienced any), and the generally conservative nature of dress (particularly for women). A raincoat and a few light layers are all you’ll need for warmth. Throw in a small pair of quality binoculars to enhance your wildlife viewing, without adding much bulk to your luggage. Check out PackforaPurpose.org to see what you can bring to communities in need.

Have any questions or comments about our Rwanda travel guide? We’d love to hear them in the comments below!

A huge thank you to our sponsor Allianz Travel Insurance for believing in the importance of sustainable travel and financially supporting eco-minded content creators like us!