With European-style architecture, top-notch museums, tango salons, Malbec wines, and Argentine beef, Buenos Aires seemed like a good place to sit and stay for a while. So we moved into a proper home (with an adorable grandma-like caretaker), enrolled ourselves in Spanish classes for the week and took our time getting to know and love this world-class city.
Part of what makes BA such an interesting place is its feistiness. Coming off both a military dictatorship and an economic collapse in the past 30 years, Porteños aren’t going to put up with any more shenanigans. This photo is of the Casa Rosada which is their White House and the backdrop of near-daily protests.
To get a grasp on this “historia viva” we signed up for an amazing political history walking tour called Cultour. We learned a bit about the current president Cristina, the Dirty War, and the Perons with a visit to Evita’s memorial and her workers party building, CGT (Evita memorials are everywhere in Argentina, btw).
Touristy as it may be, tango lessons and a show are a must. We went to Club Catedral in this renovated warehouse outfitted with 1920s decor for a class and then to watch the good dancers show us up. We would highly recommend this place–with an unlikely vegetarian menu and steal of a wine list!
A cemetery struck me as a strange city highlight but Recoleta’s ornate graves had us roaming its creepy beautiful passageways all morning.
We took a long stroll from our flat in Microcentro to get to Malba (Museo America Latina Buenos Aires) through series of lively parks. On a grassy knoll filled with people drinking mate tea (we cannot begin to explain what a cultural phenomenon this is–no one leaves home without their thermos, gourd cup, tea leaves, and straw), playing music, even practicing acrobatics up a tree.
The street wrapping around the park attracts a slew of fantastic skateboarders. (After seeing Mike uncontrollably take photos of skaters over the past couple months, I think he may just come back to the States as a sports photographer).
Popping into El Ateneo, a gorgeous old theater turned into a grand bookstore, was an inspiring spot to do a bit more Argentina research and grab a café con leche.
The San Telmo neighborhood is a dream for antiquing. On Sunday’s they turn half the streets into a flea market and everyday you can pop into boutiques like this gem, Gabriel del Campo–the chicest store spotted in south America to date!!
Buenos Aires Favorites
La Cabrera: Top notch menu half off from 7-8:30 (don’t be late!)
El Desnivel: Our resident BA friend took us to this local parilla spot for amazing steaks.
Pizzeria Guerrin: Classic pizza joint on the cheap. Be sure to order the pizza bread so you can do as locals do and eat your slice like a sandwich.
Bar Plaza Dorengo: A place to get a raw taste of Buenos Aires café culture, if the infamous Cafe Tortoni’s tourists get you down.
Catedral: The trifecta of great ambiance, tango lessons, good eats, and entertainment.
Cadare Ice Cream: This town just knows how to make ice cream but here the dulce de leche with chocolate chips is beyond delish!